I've got to catch you up! It's been radio silence on my end because of a perfect storm of events: tragedy in Japan, trip to Melk and Krems, super increased workload because of nuclear events in Japan, food poisoning, and then lots of folks visiting Vienna/my birthday. Seriously, guys, I've been feeling guilty for *not* updating this thing, which is just sad since it's: a) not great literature and b) not that widely read. But I think it's the Swarthmore curse - forever doomed to feel guilty.
First, the tragedy in Japan has pretty much been all-consuming for me. That first weekend after it happened, I had a tightness in my chest that wouldn't go away, and I couldn't stop obsessively checking the news for updates, even though each new piece of news was worse than the last. In a way, it's good that I went on the day trip to Krems and Melk, if just to forcibly get myself away from a computer. Since the tragedy, much of my time at work has been spent following the nuclear crisis there and trying to figure just what the heck is going on. The Japan mission at the VIC had a concert in the atrium to inspire donations for relief efforts, and they had volunteers accosting people (good for them - I'm glad they didn't just sit there and wait for people to go to them) on their way to lunch, asking for donations. Simultaneously, there has been a committee on narcotics meeting at the VIC, which has meant more protests (this seems to be a bi-weekly thing here) and an artistic yet ghoulish show in the atrium that drove home the point that drugs = death.
Anyway, two weekends ago, I went to Melk and Krems with Val (pictures on facebook). Melk is a beautiful and stunning abbey that houses only 30 Benedictine monks. It used to be a larger order, but, well, I suppose the monk lifestyle is not that appealing these days. I say they should give it time - I know some recent grads who might turn to that profession out of exasperation at the rest of the world's perception of the worth of their degree. When we got to Melk, as usual, we had no idea where we were going but thought we should head toward the huge abbey looming in the distance. It turns out we went the back way, stumbled upon an overgrown cellar that may have been a part of the abbey once-upon-a-time, found a path up to the back of the abbey, and then walked along the service road that snaked back around to the front entrance. Because it was winter time, guests are only allowed on the grounds by purchasing a guided tour. This was fine with me - our tour guide was pretty knowledgeable and friendly. The grounds are enormous, and I was happy to learn that half of them are used as a school. We saw no monks on our tour.
After eating lunch in Melk, we headed back to the train station with the idea we'd make our way to Krems, which is supposed to be a cute town that is a popular summer destination. At the train station, the computer allowed us to buy a ticket to Krems. OK, excellent. Now...which side of the platform do we go to? And which train do we take? No clue. After wandering a bit, we decided to ask a fellow with a bicycle. He said that we should take a bus instead. So we headed out to the bus depot, which was completely deserted, and proceeded to check every bus stall's schedule to find the bus to Krems. I thought I found it, and it said the last bus there had left 3 hours ago. Darn. We headed back to the train station as a bus pulled up, and bicycle man asked if we'd found the bus. We said no, he had a conversation with the bus driver of the bus that just pulled up, and the bus driver walked by us and said, "Yes, you want to take my bus. I leave in 20 minutes." When we got on the bus and showed him our train tickets, he looked at them, confirmed they went to Krems, said, "Bah, it's fine" and waved us on.
The bus ride was about an hour, and I'm really glad we took it. It stopped in a bunch of little towns along the way...as in, drove into the smaller streets of some of them (we had only a few inches clearance on either side). There were all sorts of wineries all over the place, and it was fun to watch the barges go up and down the Danube. When we got to Krems, we sort of freaked out and accidentally got off at the stop just prior to where we wanted to be. This meant that we ended up in the middle of a normal-looking downtown area. Krems is not supposed to be normal looking - it's supposed to be a medieval town. So we followed the signs to Information, which was closed (of course), but thankfully had town maps outside. We open the map and see an artistic rendering of red-roofed medievalness. Yes, this is what we want! Now where the heck are we in relation to this?! Val picked a direction, and lo and behold, the red roofs appeared! Thank goodness.
Krems is a quaint town - lots of small side streets, pretty architecture, and lots of shops. We had a decent time walking around it, but perhaps it's more charming in the summer time. I find all of the places we go here absolutely beautiful and fun, but I am always left thinking, "I bet this place looks gorgeous when it's blooming or summertime." The trip back to Vienna was perfect: on a train, with pastries.
Next time, I'll talk about my birthday week, my fight with a modern shower, and my trip to Laxenburg.
Monday, March 28, 2011
Tuesday, March 8, 2011
Prahahahaha
This weekend, Val, Karim, and I went to Praha, Czech Republic (photos are on facebook). We learned an expensive lesson when we discovered that train tickets are half as expensive if bought a week in advance. To ease the pain in our checkbooks, we opted to take a bus back. But first, let me tell you about the train ride there.
The train was everything I had hoped for from a European train. We had a little compartment all to ourselves, with very comfortable seats, doors, and large windows. After a little exploring, we discovered the dining compartment. It was just so...EUROPEAN! Quaint and sophisticated at the same time. We spent the whole train ride laughing, telling stories, and giving each other a hard time. I've always thought traveling by train was the most sophisticated and easiest method, but Europe really takes it to another level.
We arrived in Prague with no plan. At all. We had no idea where the station was in relation to the hostel, and we had no Czech Kroners. It was actually a ton of fun trying to figure out everything on the fly. The information desk people were surprisingly unhelpful and claimed to not know about the metro, which was accessible on the same floor as their kiosk, just 100 yards away. The Cambio folks were much more knowledgeable but were also robbers - 15% commission on our money exchange!
We managed to get to the right station and follow directions from the hostel website on how to get to the hostel. The hostel, by the way, was clean and decent, and I have no complaints considering we only spent 4 euro per person each night. Once there, Val and I discovered two Japanese students were staying in our room. I had a nice long and meandering conversation with them in Japanese since they didn't understand English. Karim's roommates weren't back or had abandoned their beds. All we know is that when we went to sleep, he had no roommates in his room. About 20 minutes after we got up at 7am the next morning, his drunk American roommates stumbled in from their extremely late night out.
We started our first day in Prague by walking to Karluv Most (Charles Bridge). It turns out that 8am is entirely too early for the Czech and tourist populations, and we got to walk across an empty Charles Bridge. After a fortifying breakfast, to make up for the lack of dinner the night before, we went to Prague Castle. Oh my goodness - good views of the city from there, but also the castle itself was impressive. There were guards at each entrance doing the stoic we-don't-react thing, and the castle grounds were immense, with various residences, museums, and churches.
Afterward, we walked back toward the bridge with the intention of eating lunch at a restaurant overlooking the river. Instead, we stumbled upon an open air market that had roasting meat, beer, mead, grog, mulled wine, and pastries. Holy cow. There was also a stage with live folk music performances that were heavily reliant on accordions. We ate a very satisfying meal (and I picked up two pastries that made the trip back to Vienna) there and headed back over an extremely crowded Charles Bridge, which was teaming with performance artists, merchants, and tourists. From there, we walked to Old Town, which is one of the most touristy parts of Prague. We walked around a bit and then decided to stop by the hostel.
We returned to Old Town in time for the laser light show at the Astronomical clock. What a creative and beautiful show - I am so glad there are talented artists out there creating work like that. There were tons of people in the square, and after the show was over, I experienced the sensation of being crushed by a crowd for the first time. We wandered around some more and happened upon an amazing chocolate shop. I am still working through the Baileys Truffle Fudge I bought.
That evening, we went to Karlovy Lazne, which advertises itself as the largest dance club in Eastern Europe. It is five floors of dancing heaven; each floor as its own theme: top radio hits, dance music, oldies music, black music (their term, not mine), and chill music. Each floor also has its own bar. We stayed until 2am, showered the grime off, and hit the hay. The next day, I may or may not have accidentally lead us onto a highway in a bid to find the bus station, but we ended up finding our way with the help of a kind Czech woman. The bus ride was really pleasant! We had a bus attendant who got us drinks, gave us newspapers and magazines (in Czech, but it's the thought that counts), and distributed headsets to use while watching American movies that were in both English and Czech. The seats were very comfortable, and it was quite cheap (16 euro).
Today was International Women's Day, and I make a brief cameo in the movie put together by the CTBTO in its honor. There was a nice ceremony in the VIC rotunda. I was a little confused by a woman who was dressed up in a witch's costume as she restocked the candy machine, as I didn't quite understand its connection to women's day, but I believe it instead had something to do with Fat Tuesday. The world celebrates too many things!
And finally, this evening I received an email entirely in German from my landlady. I believe she is inviting me to her 50th birthday party. Isn't that sweet? And..wait, I just got another email from her. Also in German. I think this is updated details on the location. I'm probably not going to be in town that weekend, but it would have been nice to go...even if I don't speak German...
The train was everything I had hoped for from a European train. We had a little compartment all to ourselves, with very comfortable seats, doors, and large windows. After a little exploring, we discovered the dining compartment. It was just so...EUROPEAN! Quaint and sophisticated at the same time. We spent the whole train ride laughing, telling stories, and giving each other a hard time. I've always thought traveling by train was the most sophisticated and easiest method, but Europe really takes it to another level.
We arrived in Prague with no plan. At all. We had no idea where the station was in relation to the hostel, and we had no Czech Kroners. It was actually a ton of fun trying to figure out everything on the fly. The information desk people were surprisingly unhelpful and claimed to not know about the metro, which was accessible on the same floor as their kiosk, just 100 yards away. The Cambio folks were much more knowledgeable but were also robbers - 15% commission on our money exchange!
We managed to get to the right station and follow directions from the hostel website on how to get to the hostel. The hostel, by the way, was clean and decent, and I have no complaints considering we only spent 4 euro per person each night. Once there, Val and I discovered two Japanese students were staying in our room. I had a nice long and meandering conversation with them in Japanese since they didn't understand English. Karim's roommates weren't back or had abandoned their beds. All we know is that when we went to sleep, he had no roommates in his room. About 20 minutes after we got up at 7am the next morning, his drunk American roommates stumbled in from their extremely late night out.
We started our first day in Prague by walking to Karluv Most (Charles Bridge). It turns out that 8am is entirely too early for the Czech and tourist populations, and we got to walk across an empty Charles Bridge. After a fortifying breakfast, to make up for the lack of dinner the night before, we went to Prague Castle. Oh my goodness - good views of the city from there, but also the castle itself was impressive. There were guards at each entrance doing the stoic we-don't-react thing, and the castle grounds were immense, with various residences, museums, and churches.
Afterward, we walked back toward the bridge with the intention of eating lunch at a restaurant overlooking the river. Instead, we stumbled upon an open air market that had roasting meat, beer, mead, grog, mulled wine, and pastries. Holy cow. There was also a stage with live folk music performances that were heavily reliant on accordions. We ate a very satisfying meal (and I picked up two pastries that made the trip back to Vienna) there and headed back over an extremely crowded Charles Bridge, which was teaming with performance artists, merchants, and tourists. From there, we walked to Old Town, which is one of the most touristy parts of Prague. We walked around a bit and then decided to stop by the hostel.
We returned to Old Town in time for the laser light show at the Astronomical clock. What a creative and beautiful show - I am so glad there are talented artists out there creating work like that. There were tons of people in the square, and after the show was over, I experienced the sensation of being crushed by a crowd for the first time. We wandered around some more and happened upon an amazing chocolate shop. I am still working through the Baileys Truffle Fudge I bought.
That evening, we went to Karlovy Lazne, which advertises itself as the largest dance club in Eastern Europe. It is five floors of dancing heaven; each floor as its own theme: top radio hits, dance music, oldies music, black music (their term, not mine), and chill music. Each floor also has its own bar. We stayed until 2am, showered the grime off, and hit the hay. The next day, I may or may not have accidentally lead us onto a highway in a bid to find the bus station, but we ended up finding our way with the help of a kind Czech woman. The bus ride was really pleasant! We had a bus attendant who got us drinks, gave us newspapers and magazines (in Czech, but it's the thought that counts), and distributed headsets to use while watching American movies that were in both English and Czech. The seats were very comfortable, and it was quite cheap (16 euro).
Today was International Women's Day, and I make a brief cameo in the movie put together by the CTBTO in its honor. There was a nice ceremony in the VIC rotunda. I was a little confused by a woman who was dressed up in a witch's costume as she restocked the candy machine, as I didn't quite understand its connection to women's day, but I believe it instead had something to do with Fat Tuesday. The world celebrates too many things!
And finally, this evening I received an email entirely in German from my landlady. I believe she is inviting me to her 50th birthday party. Isn't that sweet? And..wait, I just got another email from her. Also in German. I think this is updated details on the location. I'm probably not going to be in town that weekend, but it would have been nice to go...even if I don't speak German...
Thursday, March 3, 2011
How to Use a German Washer/Dryer
Step 1: Stare at unit in confusion, trying to remember the instructions Sarah gave to my jet-lagged befuddled brain the day I got here.
Step 2: Give up shortly after losing staring contest with unit.
Step 3: Grab computer, place on top of unit, open up google translator.
Step 4: Translate some words.
Step 5: Try turning dial to appropriate-looking spots. See digital display come up with minutes. Try to alter minutes. Suddenly, an RPM display shows up and am instead altering the RPMs.
Step 6: Panic. Try pushing another button to affect the timer. Get different display settings popping up in digital display.
Step 7: Really panic. Start turning dial wildly in a fit of confusion. Notice that the settings re-set when dial is turned. Become calm.
Step 8: Finally get the gist of how the machine works.
Step 9: Unit begins working. Pray that it is cleaning, not drying, my clothes.
Step 10: 70 minutes later, return to unit. Clothes are damp! And smell clean! Success!
Step 11: Repeat steps 4-8 to figure out the drying setting.
Step 12: Return 120 minutes later to find clothes dry.
In other news, I started P90X this week, and it is daily torture. I say at least 5 times per workout, "He's trying to kill me," and "These people are f-ing insane!" And you know what? I'm right on both counts. I am sore every day in new places, and I don't think the soreness will stop any time soon. Doing this with Val has been great because we've been giggling throughout at the P90X dude (who says some of the corniest things) and at ourselves as we flail like fish out of water on the floor while the fitness professionals on disc look elegant and strong. Today was yoga, and not only do I suck at it, but I suck spectacularly and entertainingly, with all sorts of falling over ungracefully.
Tomorrow, we're going to Prague, so I'm sure I'll have stories to tell after that. For now, I'm going to sit..and try not to move too much..and wish the soreness away...
Step 2: Give up shortly after losing staring contest with unit.
Step 3: Grab computer, place on top of unit, open up google translator.
Step 4: Translate some words.
Step 5: Try turning dial to appropriate-looking spots. See digital display come up with minutes. Try to alter minutes. Suddenly, an RPM display shows up and am instead altering the RPMs.
Step 6: Panic. Try pushing another button to affect the timer. Get different display settings popping up in digital display.
Step 7: Really panic. Start turning dial wildly in a fit of confusion. Notice that the settings re-set when dial is turned. Become calm.
Step 8: Finally get the gist of how the machine works.
Step 9: Unit begins working. Pray that it is cleaning, not drying, my clothes.
Step 10: 70 minutes later, return to unit. Clothes are damp! And smell clean! Success!
Step 11: Repeat steps 4-8 to figure out the drying setting.
Step 12: Return 120 minutes later to find clothes dry.
In other news, I started P90X this week, and it is daily torture. I say at least 5 times per workout, "He's trying to kill me," and "These people are f-ing insane!" And you know what? I'm right on both counts. I am sore every day in new places, and I don't think the soreness will stop any time soon. Doing this with Val has been great because we've been giggling throughout at the P90X dude (who says some of the corniest things) and at ourselves as we flail like fish out of water on the floor while the fitness professionals on disc look elegant and strong. Today was yoga, and not only do I suck at it, but I suck spectacularly and entertainingly, with all sorts of falling over ungracefully.
Tomorrow, we're going to Prague, so I'm sure I'll have stories to tell after that. For now, I'm going to sit..and try not to move too much..and wish the soreness away...
Sunday, February 27, 2011
MIIS Mafia
On Friday, CNS and the Austrian Foreign Ministry announced the official opening of the Vienna Center for Disarmament and Non-Proliferation. I happily attended the opening ceremony to see the festivities and speeches by the IAEA Director General and the CTBTO Executive Secretary (pictures on facebook), which all took place at the Austrian Foreign Ministry, in a room that was appropriately ornate and dignified. It was fun to see so many MIIS professors again (it feels like I never left!), and I was particularly happy to see that all of the hard work toward this event has paid off and that CNS will have such an important presence and role to play in Vienna.
The evening, Val, Karim, and I tried to find the weekly happy hour in the UN bar, but we came up with nothin'. I considered for a moment hopping up on a table and yelling, 'Hey, where my interns at?!' but thought that'd be unprofessional, even if it was a Friday. Saturday, Val and I went shopping at Naschmarkt, where I scored some mozzarella tortellini (mediocre) and proscuitto tortellini (SO buying more). We also found a Billa, and I am in love with its wide selection of cheap food. Afterward, we each had to-die-for hot chocolates at the cafe across the street from my apartment, and we've determined that we will be returning at least 11 more times so that we can try all 12 hot chocolate flavors (pictures on facebook tomorrow).
There was an alumni reception at the Radisson hotel that evening, and I got to meet a "prospective prospective" student who has an undergrad degree in physics, has been making a career as a baritone in operas for the past 10 years or so, is getting his master's in nuclear engineering, and is interested in a career in nonproliferation. I don't know quite what I was expecting from the evening, but meeting him definitely was not anywhere in my imagination. Besides that, it was great to talk with professors and other MIIS folk more in-depth, and it was great to see everyone so happy and relaxed. I'd say there were about 50 alumni at this event, and I really appreciated the chance to hear about other folks' nonproliferation careers and even speak some Japanese! There may have been a comment about a former MIIS professor still being "considered" a MIIS professor, thereby further solidifying the mafia tendencies of MIIS: you can never truly get out.
Afterward, a bunch of us went in search of a cafe/bar to hang out. At Stephensplatz, there was some sort of PETA-esque group set up with a projection screen of pigs being mistreated by slaughterhouses, and they were screaming and screaming over loudspeakers. Pig screams reverberated up and down the streets of the square - it was horrible. We managed to stumble away from the screams to a place I affectionately call the Bat Disco, but we were asked to return in 10 minutes. Well, we are the generation of instant gratification, and 10 minutes just wouldn't do. Sorry Bat Disco - you snooze, you lose. Instead, we found Cafe Hawelka, which is super charming.
I had my first beer in Vienna, and I was astonished that I really enjoyed it. I thought I hated beer, but it turns out I just hate the horrid stuff they call beer in America. Anyway, as much as I liked this beer, it was HUGE and very strong. And it sat like a stone in my stomach. I'm hoping repeated exposure will mitigate this issue.
Today, Val, Karim, and I went on the StadtWanderweg 2 hike. It was quite beautiful 10 km hike that went through woods and a small suburb. As usual, there were many well-behaved dogs - either from relief at their freedom from the compulsory muzzles of the city center or they've been drugged - on this trail. I've never seen so many dogs in metropolitan area as I do in Vienna.
The evening, Val, Karim, and I tried to find the weekly happy hour in the UN bar, but we came up with nothin'. I considered for a moment hopping up on a table and yelling, 'Hey, where my interns at?!' but thought that'd be unprofessional, even if it was a Friday. Saturday, Val and I went shopping at Naschmarkt, where I scored some mozzarella tortellini (mediocre) and proscuitto tortellini (SO buying more). We also found a Billa, and I am in love with its wide selection of cheap food. Afterward, we each had to-die-for hot chocolates at the cafe across the street from my apartment, and we've determined that we will be returning at least 11 more times so that we can try all 12 hot chocolate flavors (pictures on facebook tomorrow).
There was an alumni reception at the Radisson hotel that evening, and I got to meet a "prospective prospective" student who has an undergrad degree in physics, has been making a career as a baritone in operas for the past 10 years or so, is getting his master's in nuclear engineering, and is interested in a career in nonproliferation. I don't know quite what I was expecting from the evening, but meeting him definitely was not anywhere in my imagination. Besides that, it was great to talk with professors and other MIIS folk more in-depth, and it was great to see everyone so happy and relaxed. I'd say there were about 50 alumni at this event, and I really appreciated the chance to hear about other folks' nonproliferation careers and even speak some Japanese! There may have been a comment about a former MIIS professor still being "considered" a MIIS professor, thereby further solidifying the mafia tendencies of MIIS: you can never truly get out.
Afterward, a bunch of us went in search of a cafe/bar to hang out. At Stephensplatz, there was some sort of PETA-esque group set up with a projection screen of pigs being mistreated by slaughterhouses, and they were screaming and screaming over loudspeakers. Pig screams reverberated up and down the streets of the square - it was horrible. We managed to stumble away from the screams to a place I affectionately call the Bat Disco, but we were asked to return in 10 minutes. Well, we are the generation of instant gratification, and 10 minutes just wouldn't do. Sorry Bat Disco - you snooze, you lose. Instead, we found Cafe Hawelka, which is super charming.
I had my first beer in Vienna, and I was astonished that I really enjoyed it. I thought I hated beer, but it turns out I just hate the horrid stuff they call beer in America. Anyway, as much as I liked this beer, it was HUGE and very strong. And it sat like a stone in my stomach. I'm hoping repeated exposure will mitigate this issue.
Today, Val, Karim, and I went on the StadtWanderweg 2 hike. It was quite beautiful 10 km hike that went through woods and a small suburb. As usual, there were many well-behaved dogs - either from relief at their freedom from the compulsory muzzles of the city center or they've been drugged - on this trail. I've never seen so many dogs in metropolitan area as I do in Vienna.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Welcome to the Neighborhood
"Vienna is such a safe city - you can be out at night at any time and be safe. Actually, you're living in one of the most dangerous parts of Vienna. It is not a good neighborhood they say - maybe 10 people are murdered in Vienna a year, and 2 of those are in our district. But it is still safe!"
That little tidbit of information came from my landlady, who was checking in on me to make sure I am happy with my living situation. And she is absolutely right - it is very safe here, even in the supposedly 'bad part' of town. Also, they have a cleaning lady who cleans the apartment either every other week or once a month - a little unclear on that one. Anyway, as you can see, I'm really living the tough life here in Vienna. I will post photos of the apartment building and my flat this weekend, hopefully, particularly since I would say that this building 'has character.'
This weekend, I had intended to go to Bratislava for the day, but an unexpected burst of laziness compelled me to spend the day lounging instead. I'm still very happy with that decision, as it meant I was well-rested and ready to join some MIIS alumni for drinks at a bar and then an attempt at dancing at Manolos. The pulsating Euro-techno beats, combined with multi-colored strobing lights, would be enough to make any American feel out of place and in awe. However, it was the other patrons that elevated the experience to surreal levels: I think there was something related to Carnival going on because many people were dressed in costumes. There was no unifying theme to these costumes (except the bartenders, who were all dressed in togas with green wreath crowns to avoid confusion, I suspect); I saw Minnie Mouse paired with what looked like Walt Disney, a man in a low-cut dress with fake breasts, sailors, flappers, and an alarming number of white guys in black afro wigs. People occasionally danced on the bar or on a table. It was quite the show. Unfortunately, the club itself was so jampacked, with little-to-no dancing, that I don't feel it's worth the constant jostling and smoke for a repeat visit. But if I must go out more in the evenings to find the right club for me, then go I must.
Tomorrow I'm going to the climbing gym again. I miss climbing more than once a week (3-4 times a week is what keeps me happiest), but I will try to make up this inactivity with taking Zumba classes - YES they have those here - and going on hikes on the weekends. I've also just learned where the closest Billa is, so my next grocery shopping excursion should promise a much larger selection at cheaper prices.
The internship continues to go well, and I am particularly happy with the recent progress I've made in finding materials/sources/experts to aid in my capstone research. I've just found out that there is an intern club here at the VIC, so hopefully I can join one of those lunches/happy hours/excursions they host soon.
Oh, one final note: I've discovered that the cafe across the street from my flat serves approximately 20 different kinds of Italian hot chocolate; they have everything from milk chocolate, to chili chocolate, white chocolate, strawberry and lychee chocolate, and on and on. I just thought you'd all like to know the reason I will no longer be able to afford groceries in the coming months.
That little tidbit of information came from my landlady, who was checking in on me to make sure I am happy with my living situation. And she is absolutely right - it is very safe here, even in the supposedly 'bad part' of town. Also, they have a cleaning lady who cleans the apartment either every other week or once a month - a little unclear on that one. Anyway, as you can see, I'm really living the tough life here in Vienna. I will post photos of the apartment building and my flat this weekend, hopefully, particularly since I would say that this building 'has character.'
This weekend, I had intended to go to Bratislava for the day, but an unexpected burst of laziness compelled me to spend the day lounging instead. I'm still very happy with that decision, as it meant I was well-rested and ready to join some MIIS alumni for drinks at a bar and then an attempt at dancing at Manolos. The pulsating Euro-techno beats, combined with multi-colored strobing lights, would be enough to make any American feel out of place and in awe. However, it was the other patrons that elevated the experience to surreal levels: I think there was something related to Carnival going on because many people were dressed in costumes. There was no unifying theme to these costumes (except the bartenders, who were all dressed in togas with green wreath crowns to avoid confusion, I suspect); I saw Minnie Mouse paired with what looked like Walt Disney, a man in a low-cut dress with fake breasts, sailors, flappers, and an alarming number of white guys in black afro wigs. People occasionally danced on the bar or on a table. It was quite the show. Unfortunately, the club itself was so jampacked, with little-to-no dancing, that I don't feel it's worth the constant jostling and smoke for a repeat visit. But if I must go out more in the evenings to find the right club for me, then go I must.
Tomorrow I'm going to the climbing gym again. I miss climbing more than once a week (3-4 times a week is what keeps me happiest), but I will try to make up this inactivity with taking Zumba classes - YES they have those here - and going on hikes on the weekends. I've also just learned where the closest Billa is, so my next grocery shopping excursion should promise a much larger selection at cheaper prices.
The internship continues to go well, and I am particularly happy with the recent progress I've made in finding materials/sources/experts to aid in my capstone research. I've just found out that there is an intern club here at the VIC, so hopefully I can join one of those lunches/happy hours/excursions they host soon.
Oh, one final note: I've discovered that the cafe across the street from my flat serves approximately 20 different kinds of Italian hot chocolate; they have everything from milk chocolate, to chili chocolate, white chocolate, strawberry and lychee chocolate, and on and on. I just thought you'd all like to know the reason I will no longer be able to afford groceries in the coming months.
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
No Way Out
I've got to say that today's little adventure was not something I anticipated having to deal with while living in Vienna. Today, I was locked inside my apartment. I got ready this morning, forgetting breakfast but intending on grabbing a bite on the way, and went to exit my apartment. My door to my apartment locks with a key, both from the inside and the outside, so in order to unlock the door from the inside you must insert your key into the lock. However, when I did this, it only went in half-way. And that's when I remembered Sarah's comment about the mother here occasionally leaving her key half-in the lock (the utility of this is beyond me) on the outside.
So I jiggled and jiggered, forced and cajoled, incrementally adjusted my tactics, and got nowhere. Slightly distraught, I returned to my room to think. On the one hand, the mom was doing laundry in my apartment, so she was bound to come back some time. On the other…I really didn't want to roll in to work at noon. I started considering my other options, but I was Rapunzel without the hair, a climber without a rope, an intern without a way to leave the apartment and get to work. I'm on the top floor of an apartment building and the only other apartment is the family's apartment, so no one would hear my screams for freedom. However, I did have the internet!
Friends who were online, from the U.S. to China, had many suggestions: use a credit card to defeat the locking mechanism, remove the pins in the hinges and just do away with the door entirely, etc. I considered chucking my luggage out my window and using them as a crash pad. An internet search of "how to escape from a locked apartment" yielded results focusing on some ridiculous game that involves clues in a trash can. First of all, this was sure-as-heck not a game, and second, my trash had no clues - believe me, I checked. Tree branches were maybe jumpable, but having recently broken a limb I was not eager to repeat the experience. After an hour, my landlady checked her email, and she came over very apologetic and saying it wouldn't happen again. Despite the fact that losing my freedom to leave my apartment left me so distraught that I forgot to grab breakfast (which I duly made up for by eating a burger and fries at lunch), I managed to do work while I was trapped, so only a little productivity lost.
Recent lessons learned:
--There are no fire escapes in my apartment. In the event of fire, I am screwed.
--I guess if I really fear for my life, I'm sure I could put on my climbing shoes and climb down or jump to the nearest tree.
--Winne the Pooh in German is Winnie Puuh
--The climbing gym has a cafe that serves wine, beer, and sausages. Even the climbing gyms here are more civilized.
--I now know how to buy grocery bags at the store…now if only I could get speedily packing my groceries down, I'd be set.
--I can now proudly say I know two ways to get to the bathroom at work.
So I jiggled and jiggered, forced and cajoled, incrementally adjusted my tactics, and got nowhere. Slightly distraught, I returned to my room to think. On the one hand, the mom was doing laundry in my apartment, so she was bound to come back some time. On the other…I really didn't want to roll in to work at noon. I started considering my other options, but I was Rapunzel without the hair, a climber without a rope, an intern without a way to leave the apartment and get to work. I'm on the top floor of an apartment building and the only other apartment is the family's apartment, so no one would hear my screams for freedom. However, I did have the internet!
Friends who were online, from the U.S. to China, had many suggestions: use a credit card to defeat the locking mechanism, remove the pins in the hinges and just do away with the door entirely, etc. I considered chucking my luggage out my window and using them as a crash pad. An internet search of "how to escape from a locked apartment" yielded results focusing on some ridiculous game that involves clues in a trash can. First of all, this was sure-as-heck not a game, and second, my trash had no clues - believe me, I checked. Tree branches were maybe jumpable, but having recently broken a limb I was not eager to repeat the experience. After an hour, my landlady checked her email, and she came over very apologetic and saying it wouldn't happen again. Despite the fact that losing my freedom to leave my apartment left me so distraught that I forgot to grab breakfast (which I duly made up for by eating a burger and fries at lunch), I managed to do work while I was trapped, so only a little productivity lost.
Recent lessons learned:
--There are no fire escapes in my apartment. In the event of fire, I am screwed.
--I guess if I really fear for my life, I'm sure I could put on my climbing shoes and climb down or jump to the nearest tree.
--Winne the Pooh in German is Winnie Puuh
--The climbing gym has a cafe that serves wine, beer, and sausages. Even the climbing gyms here are more civilized.
--I now know how to buy grocery bags at the store…now if only I could get speedily packing my groceries down, I'd be set.
--I can now proudly say I know two ways to get to the bathroom at work.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
Cramming, Tourist-Style
Apparently, Val and I took a long, hard look at this weekend and decided that we'd let the mindset of a tourist in Vienna for only 24 hours dictate our decisions. This turned out to be not a bad plan at all, but good lord, what a busy weekend!
Saturday was sightseeing day (pictures on facebook), as Val and I engaged in an exercise of the blind-leading-the-blind and took another American along with us for the ride. We started the day off at Naschmarkt, where there were stalls-upon-stalls of excellent fresh food, including meats, fruits, veggies, and all sorts of delightful prepared food. I wanted to eat it all but walked away with nothing. Fortunately, Naschmarkt is open Mon-Sat, and I intend on doing all of my grocery shopping there from now on.
Next, we headed to St. Stephen's Cathedral, which was really quite a sight to behold, inside and out. Like many European cathedrals, it has impressive spires, stained glass windows, and an appropriately somber and spiritual atmosphere within. We appreciated all of this, but who are we kidding: we were there for the catacombs. The tour of the catacombs was conducted in German and English, which was most fortunate because we learned many fascinating tidbits. For example, previous emperors' organs are kept in this cathedral (with other organs and the actual bodies kept in other cathedrals that were all competing to be the place that could say, "and the emperor is buried here!"). We got to see crypts where priests were buried, and we got to to see the renovated and old sections of the catacombs.
The old section was my favorite - appropriately spooky, low-lit, and very, very old. There were tons of skeletons piled up in various chambers. At one point, bodies were buried in the crypts because Vienna outlawed cemeteries in squares above ground. However, the smell was so bad, they had to store them in even deeper areas. Convicted felons were then charged with cleaning the bones and neatly stacking them, gathering like bones together (eg, all femurs stacked here, skulls stacked there). This resulted in what looked like a knobby looking wall, which was, in fact, a tightly packed stack of bones. There was one pit where the bodies of plague victims were stored. Apparently, people feared the plague so much, they just threw the bodies down this hole. We could see through the grating into a room just filled with bones.
After a fortifying hot chocolate, we were on our way to Belvedere Palace, which has extensive grounds, a beautiful palace, and lots of amazing artwork (including Gustav Klimt's "The Kiss"). This will be a nice place to walk around when it's not so cold and the gardens are blooming. Afterward, we had a hearty Austrian meal at a pub.
After that, it was off to Zentralfriedhof, Europe's second largest cemetery. There are over 2.5 million people buried there - more than the population of Vienna. We entered the cemetery with absolutely no plan at all for how we'd walk through it…and goodness gracious, this place was massive. It just kept stretching on and on as far the eye could see in every direction. There were very ornate graves that had intricate sculptures, more moderate ones that just had tombstones, and graves overgrown with weeds (most likely older Jewish ones, apparently). But the real stars of the cemetery were Beethoven's, Schubert's, Brahms', and Strauss' graves. We had no idea where these were, but an astonishing combination of dumb luck and attentiveness led to us stumbling upon them. Amazing!
That evening we wandered around in search of food. I may or may not have led us briefly astray into a hookah bar by accident...we were food-focused so we left immediately. Instead, we ended up at a fabulous tiny Italian restaurant that served the best pasta ever. After, we tried to go to Mozart's House, but were turned away with the excuse that it was "too late," despite my guide book saying it didn't close for another hour. Harrumph. Still, a full and wonderful day in all and a great opportunity to make a new friend.
Today, Val and I decided to go hiking (pictures on facebook), which, it turns out, is the healthiest thing we could have done today. Austrians love hiking here, and there are many trails that are both well-maintained and well-marked. What's also nice is that all of these trails are easily accessed by public transportation. So, we took the D tram out to the end of the line in Nussdorf, where the Vienna government's website told us the trail started. It was a little unclear as to where exactly we were supposed to go, but a man charging up the hill thrust his hand repeatedly in his direction while passing us…so we decided to follow him. Later, we were given a choice of two parallel paths, and he again waved us on to the correct path (while he took a different one). Thanks nice Austrian man!
After walking through the town, the trail took us into the vineyard-filled countryside. Val and I were kicking a rock along, and a runner ahead of us paused, looked back, and simulated kicking it back to us. We both laughed, and he then said a bunch of stuff in German while gesturing at his face. After asking if he spoke English, he said he'd just commented on how nice it was to see such happy faces when most people are so serious. Turns out he's a Russian who's lived in Vienna for 20 years, working as an anesthesiologist. A very friendly man!
Our hike took us through forests, another little town, and finally a really lovely view of Vienna near the Kahlenberg hotel. It started snowing at this point, and it got to be really cold as we were hiking down back to Nussdorf. The rest of the trail took us along some more vineyards and huerigers, along the Danube, and finally back toward the tram station. We got a little lost at the end there, but we were able to find our way back just fine. All in all, I'd say we hiked about 5 miles.
After being the point person for directing our travels yesterday and today, I'm feeling more comfortable with the public transit system and with the layout of Vienna as a whole. Not bad for a first week!
Saturday was sightseeing day (pictures on facebook), as Val and I engaged in an exercise of the blind-leading-the-blind and took another American along with us for the ride. We started the day off at Naschmarkt, where there were stalls-upon-stalls of excellent fresh food, including meats, fruits, veggies, and all sorts of delightful prepared food. I wanted to eat it all but walked away with nothing. Fortunately, Naschmarkt is open Mon-Sat, and I intend on doing all of my grocery shopping there from now on.
Next, we headed to St. Stephen's Cathedral, which was really quite a sight to behold, inside and out. Like many European cathedrals, it has impressive spires, stained glass windows, and an appropriately somber and spiritual atmosphere within. We appreciated all of this, but who are we kidding: we were there for the catacombs. The tour of the catacombs was conducted in German and English, which was most fortunate because we learned many fascinating tidbits. For example, previous emperors' organs are kept in this cathedral (with other organs and the actual bodies kept in other cathedrals that were all competing to be the place that could say, "and the emperor is buried here!"). We got to see crypts where priests were buried, and we got to to see the renovated and old sections of the catacombs.
The old section was my favorite - appropriately spooky, low-lit, and very, very old. There were tons of skeletons piled up in various chambers. At one point, bodies were buried in the crypts because Vienna outlawed cemeteries in squares above ground. However, the smell was so bad, they had to store them in even deeper areas. Convicted felons were then charged with cleaning the bones and neatly stacking them, gathering like bones together (eg, all femurs stacked here, skulls stacked there). This resulted in what looked like a knobby looking wall, which was, in fact, a tightly packed stack of bones. There was one pit where the bodies of plague victims were stored. Apparently, people feared the plague so much, they just threw the bodies down this hole. We could see through the grating into a room just filled with bones.
After a fortifying hot chocolate, we were on our way to Belvedere Palace, which has extensive grounds, a beautiful palace, and lots of amazing artwork (including Gustav Klimt's "The Kiss"). This will be a nice place to walk around when it's not so cold and the gardens are blooming. Afterward, we had a hearty Austrian meal at a pub.
After that, it was off to Zentralfriedhof, Europe's second largest cemetery. There are over 2.5 million people buried there - more than the population of Vienna. We entered the cemetery with absolutely no plan at all for how we'd walk through it…and goodness gracious, this place was massive. It just kept stretching on and on as far the eye could see in every direction. There were very ornate graves that had intricate sculptures, more moderate ones that just had tombstones, and graves overgrown with weeds (most likely older Jewish ones, apparently). But the real stars of the cemetery were Beethoven's, Schubert's, Brahms', and Strauss' graves. We had no idea where these were, but an astonishing combination of dumb luck and attentiveness led to us stumbling upon them. Amazing!
That evening we wandered around in search of food. I may or may not have led us briefly astray into a hookah bar by accident...we were food-focused so we left immediately. Instead, we ended up at a fabulous tiny Italian restaurant that served the best pasta ever. After, we tried to go to Mozart's House, but were turned away with the excuse that it was "too late," despite my guide book saying it didn't close for another hour. Harrumph. Still, a full and wonderful day in all and a great opportunity to make a new friend.
Today, Val and I decided to go hiking (pictures on facebook), which, it turns out, is the healthiest thing we could have done today. Austrians love hiking here, and there are many trails that are both well-maintained and well-marked. What's also nice is that all of these trails are easily accessed by public transportation. So, we took the D tram out to the end of the line in Nussdorf, where the Vienna government's website told us the trail started. It was a little unclear as to where exactly we were supposed to go, but a man charging up the hill thrust his hand repeatedly in his direction while passing us…so we decided to follow him. Later, we were given a choice of two parallel paths, and he again waved us on to the correct path (while he took a different one). Thanks nice Austrian man!
After walking through the town, the trail took us into the vineyard-filled countryside. Val and I were kicking a rock along, and a runner ahead of us paused, looked back, and simulated kicking it back to us. We both laughed, and he then said a bunch of stuff in German while gesturing at his face. After asking if he spoke English, he said he'd just commented on how nice it was to see such happy faces when most people are so serious. Turns out he's a Russian who's lived in Vienna for 20 years, working as an anesthesiologist. A very friendly man!
Our hike took us through forests, another little town, and finally a really lovely view of Vienna near the Kahlenberg hotel. It started snowing at this point, and it got to be really cold as we were hiking down back to Nussdorf. The rest of the trail took us along some more vineyards and huerigers, along the Danube, and finally back toward the tram station. We got a little lost at the end there, but we were able to find our way back just fine. All in all, I'd say we hiked about 5 miles.
After being the point person for directing our travels yesterday and today, I'm feeling more comfortable with the public transit system and with the layout of Vienna as a whole. Not bad for a first week!
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